Yes, I bonds. One can eek out another $5K in savings bond purchases by overpaying on one's Jan 15th tax estimate. Add enough to create a $5K refund to buy the bonds.
The paper bonds are in my name, and I'll send them right back to the Treasury to reregister them in electronic form.
Just your usual government bureaucracy in action.

Help me understand how a fund has the chutzpah to charge an er of 1.36% when it holds a composite of it’s own funds?

You can only "Buy", "Redeem", or "Replace/Reissue" (if lost or stolen).
Going off on a tangent: In addition to lost or stolen savings bonds, one may need to replace a savings bond because it was never received. Last week I received 11 out of 12 paper savings bonds (in 11 separate envelopes!) issued as part of my tax refund. Thank you USPS.
Since I never received the last one, I can't say I lost it. It seems that the Treasury Department agrees. Rather than using Form 1048 to replace lost, stolen, or destroyed savings bonds, one files Form 3062-4 for savings bonds never received.
Even though my savings bond was in paper form, the Treasury Department will reissue it only in electronic form. Relating back to Yogi's comment, HH bonds are the exception here too. They can be reissued in paper form.

Used to be you had to go to a major league baseball game to get "sticker shock"..."how much you want for that beer, $12 bucks? Huh?" Now you walk into the grocery store to Rono's point...and you get the same kind of sticker shock...the "huh, that costs that much" thought.
Really feel for those who are on a limited budget and have kids at home to feed.
What a mess! This would be a real good time to those of us who have had financial success in life to maybe buy an extra week or two's worth of groceries and donate to their local food bank.
Good Luck to ALL,
Baseball Fan

@yogibearbull : The bigger question , IMO, can one exchange I-bonds or must you sell & then buy. That would leave one with $10K in I-bonds over two years instead of a total of $20K.
Thanks, Derf

@racqueteer, for I-Bonds, the new inflation rate will apply to existing bonds with some delay. The rate cycle starts with 6 months at the "current rate" from the purchase date, then another 6 months for the "new" rate, and so on. Think of it as applying rates with a phase shift. So, it doesn't make sense to trade old I-Bonds UNLESS the fixed rate changes significantly and inflation rate also remains high.
EE-Bonds are different. The rate at the time of purchase is locked in for 30 years and that rate is a terrible 0.10%. But EE Bonds are guaranteed to DOUBLE on 20 years + 1 day, so that is one-time realized rate of 3.53% annualized (if held for 20 years + 1 day). I don't recommend new EE Bonds although the old pre-2005 bond are OK to hold to maturity.

Howdy folks,
I buy chicken breasts at GFS. Over the past 18 months, they've more than doubled from $14.99 to $31.99.
Oh and before we all blame everyone else, the Fed has injected some $6 TRILLION into the economy with pent up demand and supply issues. duh.
and so it goes,
peace,
rono

Does the increase in interest equal the penalty + one is only able to buy $10K - PLUS so much in a tax refund. Thought about having a large amount withheld for taxes, then from refund buy more Ibonds. Amount aloud to buy from refund is also limited.
Hope this makes sense, Derf

I find this amazing ...

hank +1

Not doing much buying at this time.
Dollar-cost averaging into PRILX (HSA) and MIEIX (401k) every two weeks.

PRWCX Annual Report dated 12/31/21.
Bank Loans = 10.7%
Floating Rate Fund I-Class TFAIX = 1.2%
Corporate Bonds = 7.1%
Money Market = 10.8%
Bank loans were almost 12% of the portfolio at that time.

@Crash and @Puddnhead et al
New Canadian budget to add tax burden to banks/insurance companies for 5 years.
Before one gets into a huff about this (taxes)..........during the pandemic, the Canadian gov't. provided back stops for these institutions.....now is repay time. The article explains the circumstances.
I haven't a clue as to how this will affect profit performance going forward for the banks/insurance companies.

@Puddnhead +1. :)

Hi Crash,
Yeah, I own FICDX. It's something I bought a while back. My reasons for buying.....I saw a piece on Canada's banks---highly rated....better than the U.S. That's one reason. The other is commodities. They've got them. The world needs them. There's my simple reasons, so we'll see how it goes. Also it's my only non-U.S. fund. I like home. Home is where the heart is. Also another fund I own (FARMX) also has 10% in Canada, just saying....
God bless
the Pudd

FOMC. funny. Saw that reference before, here.
I'm cash-poor again, just waiting and watching. When my change of address is finally accomplished, I'll know how much I have to play with in the Market. Looking ahead, I'm thinking I may wait for the ostensibly big dividend in ENIC (June) and then switch-over completely into EBR, Brasilian electric utility, with apparently much better prospects... AND a good dividend, too. Otherwise, let BHB keep falling and I'll be tempted to purchase more of it.
*GAWD, I'll be glad to be away from THE busiest street in Honolulu. I can't even hear myself THINK. Today, the wind is blowing like a hammer and the temp. is 82. (11:40 a.m.)

@Sven FICDX. upside: 120. Downside 86. (On Morningstar, the low-medium-high RISK slide rule is missing. "Insufficient data.") The only peer that Morningstar offers for comparison is Matthews Korea. That's pretty nuts.
EWC = +5.84%. (10 years.). oops, that's annualized. It's +76.45% cumulative.
Note: the top two holdings in FICDX and EWC are the same: Royal Bank of Canada and Toronto Dominion Bank. (TD, in the States.) FICDX owns MORE. Combined, they are 20.42% of total portfolio. That actually makes sense to me. As Danielle Park said many years ago: "Canada still primarily sells rocks and trees to the rest of the world." The big exception is the biggest 6 banks, and the biggest FIVE, in particular.
CM, BMO, TD, RY, BNS. They operate pretty much with monopoly power. ...... But remember this: "When the U.S. catches a cold, Canada gets the flu."

Yogi offered an excellent estimate of the upcoming I bond rate. I don't know how much of this was done seat of the pants and how much analysis was involved, but here's how the figure can be computed:
8.8% annual rate means 4.31% semi annually: (1+4.31%) x (1+4.31%) = 1 + 8.8%
The CPI in Sept. 2021 was 274.31. Adding 4.31% gives us a March 2022 CPI of 286.125.
M/M that's 0.85% inflation from Feb (CPI of 283.716).
Feb's M/M rate was 0.91%, Jan's was 0.84%, Dec's was 0.31%, Nov's was 0.49%.
With oil prices moderating (albeit with wild swings), it's reasonable to look for at least a slight reduction in the high rate of inflation lately. By the seat of the pants (the attire has to come in somewhere), a M/M rate similar to Jan's and a tad below Feb's looks good.
CPI monthly figures: https://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/surveymost?bls
Crude oil interactive graph: https://tradingeconomics.com/commodity/crude-oil

Yes, at this time I wouldn't think about going with a CD longer than 1 year, with no intent to redeem before maturity.

I view savings bonds as most closely comparable to 1 year CDs, because the savings bonds are locked up for 12 months (actually as little as 11+ 1 day).
After that, while it is true that like longer term CDs, savings bonds may be redeemed early with penalty, the two are not very comparable.
CDs are yielding so much less than I bonds that even after subtracting out the penalty on an I bond early redemption, one still comes out ahead. One might as well think of the I bond as a one year savings bond yielding 5%+. At that rate it has "no penalty" and still looks better.
But it gets worse for the CDs. Typically, brokered CDs (e.g. from Schwab, Fidelity, etc.) cannot be redeemed, though there may be a small secondary market for them. Even if that market exists, with rising rates, one will still lose out. OTOH, if rates fall, longer term (e.g. 5 year) brokered CDs tend to be callable. With brokered CDs, heads one loses, tails one loses.
CDs offered through banks tend to have higher withdrawal penalties for longer term maturities. This is another reason why I prefer to compare savings bonds with 1 year CDs.
Marcus Bank has a typical penalty schedule: 90 days interest on one 1 year CDs, and 180 days on CDs up to and including 5 years. Ally Bank is a bit better, charging just 60 days for CDs up to and including 2 years, 90 days for CDs more than 2 years up to and including 3 years, 120 days for CDs up to 4 years, and 150 days for CDs of 4 years or more.
Baseball_Fan mentioned taxes. Interest on CDs is taxable annually (even if you leave it in the CD), unless the CD is for a term of one year or less. Taxes on savings bonds are deferred until redemption (unless you elect to recognize interest annually). Thus only CDs of one year or less get the same tax treatment (deferred until maturity) as savings bonds.