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Model HS928 K1TA (Purchased 2013 / likely prior year model)
The Honda blower does not have a powered chute. Just a (less than easy to use) hand crank at operator lever for the directional control. (vertical control is a different mechanism.) A long shaft extends from that handle down to the chute region. And the worm gear is connected in-line at the base of shaft. So turning the handle turns the worm gear. As suggested, ISTM the place to start would be to look for some way to shim so that the worm engages the teeth at base of chute better.
The mechanism (gear / chute assembly) is an area that typically gets frozen in place after the machine has been sitting overnight due to snow and ice. Attempting to turn the hand crank when frozen up would perhaps cause some wear. I usually wash out the ice with alcohol or w/s washer fluid. A hand held hair dryer sometimes necessary. Yesterday I'd lubed the area with WD 40 before running it. That may have helped the issue surface earlier, but don't think it caused it.
Some travel approaching. May not get to this for a while. It is comforting to have some starting ideas. I'll definitely save those links to discussion boards and believe they may be very helpful.
@hank There should be a small amount of adjustment of the bracket that holds the manual worm gear that is positioned against the gear teeth at the bottom of the chute assembly. And lubrication allowing for free movement of all parts is very important.
You noted: Currently living in older home & ducts have no insulation. Is it worth the cost to cover them?
Are you asking about ducts in the basement? Uninsulated ducts in the basement may have a benefit in our climate, IF the basement is not leaking air to the outside, or having a lot of cold air penetration. Let us know, for possible answers.....
@catch In the summer I'm thinking would be the only time for a benefit of uninsulated duct work in the basement. Is this your thinking all so? One could insulate duct work & then remove access door to filter, to allow cool basement air to be sent to the upstairs. Probably better to have an access cut into return duct so filter would still be doing it's job. Just my $.02, Derf
@Derf For winter time..........with only my presumptions about your house.....IF there is not cold air entering into the basement from whatever areas; WITH uninsulated ducts from the furnace, the sub-floors of the house are warmed from the warm duct work. This provides for warmth to the floors you walk upon. This is NOT a bad form of helping to heat the house from the sub-floors. The mass of all the wood product in the basement absorbs and stores some heat that is slowly dissipated. This would also include the cinder block basement walls, if this is the type of basement being discussed.
@hank There should be a small amount of adjustment of the bracket that holds the manual worm gear that is positioned against the gear teeth at the bottom of the chute assembly. And lubrication allowing for free movement of all parts is very important.
Sounds reasonable. Thanks @ Catch. Won't do anything until I have a free day to warm up the garage with couple propane heaters & take a good look at it. An adjustment would be "golden."
Yep, that video is likely to be the winner. Same as the diagram and instructions in the second link that I posted, but much better at getting the point across. Looks like a 1-minute fix.
For lube, I would consider white lithium, as it stays in place very well and can be found in spray can dispensers.
You noted: Currently living in older home & ducts have no insulation. Is it worth the cost to cover them?
Are you asking about ducts in the basement? Uninsulated ducts in the basement may have a benefit in our climate, IF the basement is not leaking air to the outside, or having a lot of cold air penetration. Let us know, for possible answers.....
I tend to agree on uninsulated ductwork possibly being beneficial. Unless in an unheated area.
Yes, exactly. In fact I actually vent some heat into our SF basement because we have clotheslines in that area, and I frequently work at the workbench down there too. That heat also warms the floors over that area, as you folks have noted.
Comments
Model HS928 K1TA (Purchased 2013 / likely prior year model)
The Honda blower does not have a powered chute. Just a (less than easy to use) hand crank at operator lever for the directional control. (vertical control is a different mechanism.) A long shaft extends from that handle down to the chute region. And the worm gear is connected in-line at the base of shaft. So turning the handle turns the worm gear. As suggested, ISTM the place to start would be to look for some way to shim so that the worm engages the teeth at base of chute better.
The mechanism (gear / chute assembly) is an area that typically gets frozen in place after the machine has been sitting overnight due to snow and ice. Attempting to turn the hand crank when frozen up would perhaps cause some wear. I usually wash out the ice with alcohol or w/s washer fluid. A hand held hair dryer sometimes necessary. Yesterday I'd lubed the area with WD 40 before running it. That may have helped the issue surface earlier, but don't think it caused it.
Some travel approaching. May not get to this for a while. It is comforting to have some starting ideas. I'll definitely save those links to discussion boards and believe they may be very helpful.
Let us know, for possible answers.....
One could insulate duct work & then remove access door to filter, to allow cool basement air to be sent to the upstairs. Probably better to have an access cut into return duct so filter would still be doing it's job.
Just my $.02, Derf
For lube, I would consider white lithium, as it stays in place very well and can be found in spray can dispensers.